The present invention relates to the use of a polymeric carrier material treated with a fluorescent whitening agent, for lightening human skin and for protecting human skin against UV radiation.
Melanin is a dark pigment that is found in the hair, the eyes and, especially, the skin, and that is formed in the so-called melanocytes by the conversion of the amino acid tyrosine in the presence of the enzyme tyrosinase. The number of melanocytes varies widely according to individual skin type.
Frequently, local areas of skin are to be found that have an increased melanin density. In such areas the number of melanocytes is significantly elevated, resulting in a skin colour that is far darker than the colour of the rest of the skin. Such local, hyperpigmented areas are known as brown spots, age spots or liver spots.
Women who have borne children and/or have taken the contraceptive pill for a prolonged period are frequently more especially subject to such spot formation. This undesired colour change is considered in particular by many women to be a disfigurement, and frequently leads to serious emotional disorders. Also, in many cultures in which parts of the population are coloured, especially in the Asiatic region, a naturally dark skin type that has elevated melanin concentration is undesirable. In regions such as those, depigmentation compositions are preferably used to lighten the skin.
In the past a number of topical preparations have been proposed for the prevention of hyperpigmentation that comprise one or more components, so-called depigmentation agents or bleaching agents, e.g. hydroquinone, hydroquinone derivatives, hydrocortisone and retinic acid, benzyloxyphenol (U.S. Pat. No. 3,060,097) or methoxyphenol. Such components bring about depigmentation by the oxidation or reduction of melanin, but a disadvantage of those active ingredients is that they may cause undesired skin reactions, or satisfactory formulation thereof into cosmetic preparations is not possible.
The problem of the present invention is to make available skin-lightening compositions that on the one hand have the effect of lightening the skin and that on the other hand are well tolerated by the skin and can be formulated cosmetically.
Surprisingly, it has now been found that a polymeric carrier material treated with a fluorescent whitening agent meets those requirements. In addition, such a material protects the human skin from the damaging effect of UV rays.
The present invention accordingly relates to the use of a polymeric carrier material treated with a fluorescent whitening agent for lightening human skin and for protecting human skin against UV radiation.
Preferred fluorescent whitening agents that can be used in accordance with the invention correspond to the formula 
wherein
R1 is a radical of formula 
R3 is M; unsubstituted or substituted alkyl or unsubstituted or substituted aryl;
R4 is hydrogen; unsubstituted or substituted alkyl or unsubstituted or substituted aryl; or xe2x80x94NR6R7, wherein R6 and R7 are each independently of the other hydrogen; unsubstituted or substituted alkyl or unsubstituted or substituted aryl; or R6 and R7 together with the nitrogen atom binding them form a heterocyclic radical, especially a morpholino or piperidino radical,
R5 is hydrogen, unsubstituted or substituted alkyl or unsubstituted or substituted aryl, or a radical of formula (1a) xe2x80x94(CH2)x2xe2x80x94Oxe2x80x94SO3xe2x80x94M;
R2 is hydrogen, unsubstituted or substituted alkyl or unsubstituted or substituted aryl; or a radical of formula 
xe2x80x83xe2x80x94OH, xe2x80x94NH2, xe2x80x94N(OH2OH2OH)2; xe2x80x94N[CH2CH(OH)CH3]2; xe2x80x94NHxe2x80x94R3; xe2x80x94N(R3)2 or xe2x80x94OR3; or
R1 and R2 are each independently of the other xe2x80x94OH, xe2x80x94Cl; xe2x80x94NH2, xe2x80x94Oxe2x80x94C1-C4alkyl, xe2x80x94Oxe2x80x94aryl, xe2x80x94NHxe2x80x94C1-C4alkyl, xe2x80x94N(C1-C4alkyl)2, xe2x80x94N(C1-C4alkyl), xe2x80x94N(hydroxy-C1-C4alkyl), xe2x80x94N(hydroxy-C1-C4alkyl)2; xe2x80x94NH-aryl, morpholino; or Sxe2x80x94C1-C4alkyl(aryl);
R8 and R9 are each independently of the other hydrogen, C1-C4alkyl, phenyl or a radical of formula 
R10 is hydrogen, Cl or SO3M;
R11 is xe2x80x94CN, xe2x80x94SO3M, xe2x80x94S(C1-C4alkyl)2 or S(aryl)2;
R12 is hydrogen, xe2x80x94SO3M, xe2x80x94Oxe2x80x94C1-C4alkyl, xe2x80x94CN, xe2x80x94Cl, xe2x80x94COOxe2x80x94C1-C4alkyl or CON(C1-C4alkyl)2;
R13 is hydrogen; xe2x80x94C1-C4alkyl, xe2x80x94Cl or xe2x80x94SO3M;
R14 and R15 are each independently of the other hydrogen, C1-C4alkyl, xe2x80x94SO3M, xe2x80x94Cl or xe2x80x94Oxe2x80x94C1-C4alkyl;
R16 is hydrogen or C1-C4alkyl;
R17 is hydrogen, C1-C4alkyl, xe2x80x94CN, xe2x80x94Cl, xe2x80x94COOxe2x80x94C1-C4alkyl, xe2x80x94CON (C1-C4alkyl)2, aryl or xe2x80x94O-aryl;
M is hydrogen, Na, K, Ca, Mg, ammonium, mono-, di-, tri- or tetra-C1-C4alkylammonium, mono-, di- or tri-C1-C4hydroxyalkylammonium, or ammonium di- or tri-substituted by a mixture of C1-C4alkyl and C1-C4hydroxyalkyl groups;
n1, n2 and n3 are each independently of the others 0 or 1;
x1 is 1 or 2; and
x2 is from 1 to 3.
R2, R3, R4, R5, R6 and R7 in the meaning of (unsubstituted or) substituted alkyl is C1-C12alkyl, preferably C1-C4alkyl. The alkyl groups may be branched or unbranched and may be unsubstituted or substituted by halogen, e.g. fluorine, chlorine or bromine, by C1-C4alkoxy, e.g. methoxy or ethoxy, by phenyl or carboxyl, by C1-C4alkoxycarbonyl, e.g. acetyl, by mono- or di-C1-C4alkylamino or by xe2x80x94SO3M.
R2, R3, R4, R5, R6 and R7 in the meaning of (unsubstituted or) substituted aryl is preferably a phenyl or naphthyl group that may be unsubstituted or substituted by C1-C4alkyl, e.g. methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl or tert-butyl, by C1-C4alkoxy, e.g. methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy, isopropoxy, butoxy, isobutoxy, sec-butoxy or tert-butoxy, by halogen, e.g. fluorine, chlorine or bromine, by C2-C5alkanoylamino, e.g. acetylamino, propionylamino or butyrylamino, by nitro, by sulfo or by di-C1-C4alkylated amino.
The compounds of formula (1) are preferably used in neutral form, that is to say M is preferably a cation of an alkali metal, especially sodium, or an amine.
In the compounds of formula (1), R1 is preferably a radical of formula 
wherein R3 has the meanings given above and is preferably C1-C4alkyl, especially methyl or ethyl; or a radical of formula 
wherein R4 has the meanings given above and is preferably C1-C4alkyl, especially methyl or ethyl, or xe2x80x94NR6R7, wherein R6 and R7 have the meanings given above and are preferably hydrogen, C1-C4alkyl, especially methyl or ethyl, a morpholino or piperidino radical, more especially hydrogen, or a radical of formula 
wherein R5 has the meanings given above and is preferably C1-C4alkyl substituted by xe2x80x94SO3M, especially methyl or ethyl substituted by xe2x80x94SO3M, wherein M has the meanings given above and Is preferably sodium; and R2 is preferably 
xe2x80x94NH2, xe2x80x94N(CH2CH2OH)2 of xe2x80x94N[CH2CH(OH)CH3]2.
The compounds of formula (1) can be prepared under known reaction conditions by the reaction of cyanuric chloride with the corresponding aminostilbenesulfonic acids and with an amino compound that is capable of introducing a group R1 and with a compound that is capable of introducing a group R2, R1 and R2 having the meanings given above.
The fluorescent whitening agents that can be used with advantage in the present invention are listed by way of example in the following Table 1:
In principle, as polymeric carriers for use in accordance with the invention there come into consideration materials that are suitable for cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations. The polymeric materials may be of natural origin or are obtainable synthetically, e.g. starch, starch derivatives, e.g. hydroxypropyl-distarch phosphate, polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyvinyl-polypyrrolidones, polyacrylates, acrylates/steareth-20, methacrylate copolymers, acrylate copolymers, acrylate-octylpropenamide copolymer (Dermacryl 79), acrylate/vinyl isodecanoate cross polymer, C1-10polycarbamyl-polyglycol esters; C1-C18polycarbamyl-polyglycol esters, acrylate/hydroxy ester acrylate copolymer, acrylate-octylacrylamide; polyacrylamide: polyamides, polyvinylcaprolactam, polyvinyl alcohols, polyolefin dispersions, polyesters, sodium polystyrenesulfonates, latex particles (of all kinds of polymers and copolymers), chitosan and derivatives, xanthans, Gellan, hyaluronic acid, cellulose, cellulose ethers, polyglucans, CM-glucans, alginates, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, cyclodextrins (xcex1-, xcex2-, xcex3-) and their derivatives, polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene block polymers, (hydrolysed) collagen, (hydrolysed) elastin, (hydrolysed) keratin, collagen, gelatin, gum arabic and polyquarternium-X (1-10).
The polymeric material preferably used is cellulose.
To prepare a polymeric carrier material treated with a fluorescent whitening agent, the above-mentioned fluorescent whitening agents can be applied to an appropriate carrier. This can be carried out by mixing the carrier materials with the appropriate fluorescent whitening agent in a suitable solvent. When, for example, a solvent in which the fluorescent whitening agent is soluble but the polymeric carrier material is insoluble is used, the dissolved fluorescent whitening agent can be applied directly to the polymeric carrier material. The solvent can be removed from the resulting treated polymeric carrier material by suitable physical separating methods.
When a solvent, e.g. water, in which the fluorescent whitening agent and the polymeric carrier material are soluble, orxe2x80x94in the case of the carrier materialxe2x80x94swellable, is used, the entire whitening agent/polymeric carrier material/solvent mixture can be incorporated into an appropriate cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation. It is, however, also possible to remove the solvent from the mixture by suitable methods before the mixture is used further.
The polymeric carrier materials treated with a fluorescent whitening agent can also be prepared by chemical reaction of the polymeric carrier material with the appropriate fluorescent whitening agent.
The polymeric carrier materials treated with a fluorescent whitening agent so obtained are suitable for lightening human skin. They simultaneously offer effective protection against UV radiation. A further advantage of such materials is that the actual active substance, that is the fluorescent whitening agent, does not come into direct contact with the skin.
For cosmetic and pharmaceutical use, the treated polymeric carrier materials can be incorporated into appropriate formulations.
The invention accordingly relates also to a cosmetic formulation that comprises a polymeric carrier material treated with a fluorescent whitening agent, as well as cosmetically tolerable carriers or adjuvants.
The cosmetic formulation may, in addition to containing the polymeric carrier material treated with a fluorescent whitening agent, also contain one or more further UV-protective substances from the following classes of substance:
1. p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives. e.g. 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester;
2. salicylic acid derivatives, e.g. salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester;
3. benzophenone derivatives, e.g. 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone and the 5-sulfonic acid derivative thereof;
4. dibenzoylmethane derivatives, e.g. 1-(4-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione;
5. diphenyl acrylates, e.g. 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate and 3-(benzofuranyl)-2-cyanoacrylate;
6. 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and esters;
7. benzofuran derivatives, especially 2-(p-aminophenyl)benzofuran derivatives, described in EP-A-582 189, U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,338,539, 5,518,713 and EP-A-613 893;
8. polymeric UV absorbers, e.g. the benzylidene malonate derivatives described in EP-A-709 080;
9. cinnamic acid derivatives, e.g. the 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and iso-amyl ester disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,601,811 and WO 97/00851;
10. camphor derivatives, e.g. 3-(4xe2x80x2-methyl)benzylidene-bornan-2-one, 3-benzylidene-bornan-2-one, N-[2(and 4)-2-oxyborn-3-ylidene-methyl)-benzyl]acrylamide polymer, 3-(4xe2x80x2-trimethylammonium)-benzylidene-bornan-2-one methyl sulfate, 3,3xe2x80x2-(1,4-phenylenedimethine-bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo[2.2.1]heptane-1-methanesulfonic acid) and salts, 3-(4xe2x80x2-sulfo)benzylidene-bornan-2-one and salts;
11. trianilino-s-triazine derivatives, e.g. 2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2xe2x80x2-ethyl-1xe2x80x2-oxy)-1,3,5-triazine and the UV absorbers disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,332,568, EP-A-517 104, EP-A-507 691, WO 93/17002 and EP-A-570 838;
12. 2-hydroxyphenyl-benzotriazole derivatives;
13. 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and salts thereof;
14. menthyl-o-aminobenzoate;
15. TiO2 (variously encapsulated), ZnO and mica;
16. hydroxyphenyltriazines, e.g. compounds of formula 
wherein
R1 and R2 are each independently of the other C3-C18alkyl; C2-C18alkenyl; or a radical of formula xe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94CH(xe2x80x94OH)xe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94Oxe2x80x94T1; or
R1 and R2 are a radical of formula (31a) 
R12 is a direct bond, a straight-chain or branched C1-C4alkylene radical or a radical of formula xe2x80x94Cm1H2m1xe2x80x94 or xe2x80x94Cm1H2m1xe2x80x94Oxe2x80x94;
R13, R14 and R15 are each independently of the others C1-C18alkyl; C1-C18alkoxy or a radical of formula 
R16 is C1-C5alkyl;
m1 and m3 are each independently of the other from 1 to 4;
P1 is 0 or a number from 1 to 5;
A1 is a radical of formula 
xe2x80x83or of formula 
R3 is hydrogen; C1-C10alkyl; xe2x80x94(CH2CHR5xe2x80x94O)n1xe2x80x94R4; or a radical of formula xe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94CH(xe2x80x94OH)xe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94Oxe2x80x94T1;
R4 is hydrogen; M; C1-C5alkyl; or a radical of formula xe2x80x94(CH2)m2xe2x80x94Oxe2x80x94T1;
R5 is hydrogen; or methyl;
T1 is hydrogen; or C1-C8alkyl;
Q1 is C1-C18alkyl;
M is a metal cation;
m2 is from 1 to 4; and
n1 is from 1 to 16;
especially the triazine compound of formula 
17. micronised organic UV absorbers, especially compounds of formula 
xe2x80x83wherein
T1 is hydrogen; or C1-C12alkyl; more especially benzotriazole compounds of formula 
xe2x80x83wherein
T1 has the meanings given for formula (32) and is preferably methyl, tert-butyl or isooctyl.
Also, the UV absorbers described in xe2x80x9cSunscreensxe2x80x9d, Eds. N. J. Lowe, N. A. Shaath, Marcel Dekker, Inc., New York and Basle or in Cosmetics and Toiletries (107), 5off (1992) can be used as additional UV-protective substances in the formulation according to the invention.
The cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation according to the invention can furthermore also be used together with known antioxidants, e.g. vitamin E, carotinoids or flavonoids.
The cosmetic formulation according to the invention contains from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of a polymeric carrier material treated with a fluorescent whitening agent, as well as a cosmetically tolerable adjuvant.
The cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation can be prepared by physically mixing the treated polymeric carrier material with the adjuvant using customary methods, e.g. by simply stirring together the individual components.
The cosmetic formulation according to the invention may be formulated as a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, as an oil-in-alcohol lotion, as a vesicular dispersion of an ionic or non-ionic amphiphilic lipid, as a gel, cream or lotion, a solid stick, powder, make-up, foam, paste, suspension or stick, or as an aerosol formulation.
In the case of a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, the cosmetically/pharmaceutically tolerable adjuvant contains preferably from 5 to 50% of an oily phase, from 5 to 20% of an emulsifier and from 30 to 90% water. The oily phase may comprise any oil suitable for cosmetic/pharmaceutical formulations, e.g. one or more hydrocarbon oils, a wax, a natural oil, a silicone oil, a fatty acid ester or a fatty alcohol. Preferred mono- or poly-ols are ethanol, iso-propanol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol and sorbitol.
Any conventionally used emulsifier can be used for the cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation according to the invention, e.g. one or more ethoxylated esters of natural derivatives, e.g. polyethoxylated esters of hydrogenated castor oil, or a silicone oil emulsifier, e.g. silicone polyol; a fatty acid soap which may or may not be ethoxylated; an ethoxylated fatty alcohol; a sorbitan ester which may or may not be ethoxylated; an ethoxylated fatty acid; or an ethoxylated glyceride.
The cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation may also contain further components, e.g. emollients, emulsion stabilisers, skin humectants, thickeners, e.g. xanthan, moisture-retaining agents, e.g. glycerol, preservatives, perfumes and colourants.
The carrier materials treated with a fluorescent whitening agent that can be used in accordance with the invention are also suitable for improving the appearance of cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulations. Frequently, the intrinsic colour especially of cosmetic formulations is an undesirable beige, or is even yellowish, as a result of the intrinsic colour of the components. The use of a polymeric carrier material treated with a fluorescent whitening agent according to the invention allows the degree of whiteness of such formulations to be increased. At the same time, the UV-absorbing properties of those carrier materials provides such products and their components with effective protection against the damaging effect of UV radiation.
The invention relates also to the use of the carrier materials treated with a fluorescent whitening agent for improving the degree of whiteness of cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulations.
The following Examples serve to illustrate the present invention.